solar

Solar Cluster: WTF

So… with the new controller we’re able to see how much current we’re getting from the solar.  I note they omit the solar voltage, and I suspect the current is how much is coming out of the MPPT stage, but still, it’s more information than we had before.

With this, we noticed that on a good day, we were getting… 7A.

That’s about what we’d expect for one panel.  What’s going on?  Must be a wiring fault!

I’ll admit when I made the mounting for the solar controller, I didn’t account for the bend radius in the 6gauge wire I was using, and found it was difficult to feed it into the controller properly.  No worries, this morning at 4AM I powered everything off, took the solar controller off, drilled 6 new holes a bit lower down, fed the wires through and screwed them back in.

Whilst it was all off, I decided I’d individually charge the batteries.  So, right-hand battery came first, I hook the mains charger directly up and let ‘er rip.  Less than 30 minutes later, it was done.

So, disconnect that, hook up the left hand battery.  45 minutes later the charger’s still grinding away.  WTF?

Feel the battery… it is hot!  Double WTF?

It would appear that this particular battery is stuffed.  I’ve got one good one though, so for now I pull the dud out and run with just the one.

I hook everything up,  do some final checks, then power the lot back up.

Things seem to go well… I do my usual post-blackout dance of connecting my laptop up to the virtual instance management VLAN, waiting for the OpenNebula VM to fire up, then log into its interface (because we’re too kewl to have a command line tool to re-start an instance), see my router and gitea instances are “powered off”, and instruct the system to boot them.

They come up… I’m composing an email, hit send… “Could not resolve hostname”… WTF?  Wander downstairs, I note the LED on the main switch flashing furiously (as it does on power-up) and a chorus of POST beeps tells me the cluster got hard-power-cycled.  But why?  Okay, it’s up now, back up stairs, connect to the VLAN, re-start everything again.

About to send that email again… boompa!  Same error.  Sure enough, my router is down.  Wander downstairs, and as I get near, I hear the POST beeps again.  Battery voltage is good, about 13.2V.  WTF?

So, about to re-start everything, then I lose contact with my OpenNebula front-end.  Okay, something is definitely up.  Wander downstairs, and the hosts are booting again.  On a hunch I flick the off-switch to the mains charger.  Klunk, the whole lot goes off.  There’s no connection to the battery, and so when the charger drops its power to check the battery voltage, it brings the whole lot down.

WTF once more?  I jiggle some wires… no dice.  Unplug, plug back in, power blinks on then off again.  What is going on?

Finally, I pull right-hand battery out (the left-hand one is already out and cooling off, still very warm at this point), 13.2V between the negative terminal and positive on the battery, good… 13.2V between negative and the battery side of the isolator switch… unscrew the fuse holder… 13.2V between fuse holder terminal and the negative side…  but 0V between negative side on battery and the positive terminal on the SB50 connector.

No apparent loose connections, so I grab one of my spares, swap it with the existing fuse.  Screw the holder back together, plug the battery back in, and away it all goes.

This is the offending culprit.  It’s a 40A 5AG fuse.  Bought for its current carrying capacity, not for the “bling factor” (gold conductors).

If I put my multimeter in continuance test mode and hold a probe on each end cap, without moving the probes, I hear it go open-circuit, closed-circuit, open-circuit, closed-circuit.  Fuses don’t normally do that.

I have a few spares of these thankfully, but I will be buying a couple more to replace the one that’s now dead.  Ohh, and it looks like I’m up for another pair of batteries, and we will have a working spare 105Ah once I get the new ones in.

On the RAM front… the firm I bought the last lot through did get back to me, with some DDR3L ECC SO-DIMMs, again made by Kingston.  Sounded close enough, they were 20c a piece more (AU$855 for 6 vs $AU864.50).

Given that it was likely this would be an increasing problem, I thought I’d at least buy enough to ensure every node had two matched sticks in, so I told them to increase the quantity to 9 and to let me know what I owe them.

At first they sent me the updated invoice with the total amount (AU$1293.20).  No problems there.  It took a bit of back-and-forth before I finally confirmed they had the previous amount I sent them.  Great, so into the bank I trundle on Thursday morning with the updated invoice, and I pay the remainder (AU$428.70).

Friday, I get the email to say that product was no longer available.  They instead, suggested some Crucial modules which were $60 a piece cheaper.  Well, when entering a gold mine, one must prepare themselves for the shaft.

Checking the link, I found it: these were non-ECC.  1Gbit×64, not 1Gbit×72 like I had ordered.  In any case I was over it, I fired back an email telling them to cancel the order and return the money.  I was in no mood for Internet shopper Russian Roulette.

It turns out I can buy the original sticks through other suppliers, just not in the quantities I’m after.  So I might be able to buy one or two from a supplier, I can’t buy 9.  Kingston have stopped making them and so what’s left is whatever companies have in stock.

So I’ll have to move to something else.  It’d be worth buying one stick of the original type so I can pair it with one of the others, but no more than that.  I’m in no mood to do this in a few years time when parts are likely to be even harder to source… so I think I’ll bite the bullet and go 16GB modules.  Due to the limits on my debit card though, I’ll have to buy them two at a time (~$900AUD each go).  The plan is:

  1. Order in two 16GB modules and an 8GB module… take existing 8GB module out of one of the compute nodes and install the 16GB modules into that node.  Install the brand new 8GB module and the recovered 8GB module into two of the storage nodes.  One compute node now has 32GB RAM, and two storage nodes are now upgraded to 16GB each.  Remaining compute node and storage node each have 8GB.
  2. Order in two more 16GB modules… pull the existing 8GB module out of the other compute node, install the two 16GB modules.  Then install the old 8GB module into the remaining storage node.  All three storage nodes now have 16GB each, both compute nodes have 32GB each.
  3. Order two more 16GB modules, install into one compute node, it now has 64GB.
  4. Order in last two 16GB modules, install into the other compute node.

Yes, expensive, but sod it.  Once I’ve done this, the two nodes doing all the work will be at their maximum capacity.  The storage nodes are doing just fine with 8GB, so 16GB should mean there’s plenty of RAM for caching.

As for virtual machine management… I’m pretty much over OpenNebula.  Dealing with libvirt directly is no fun, but at least once configured, it works!  OpenNebula has a habit of not differentiating between a VM being powered off (as in, me logging into the guest and issuing a shutdown), and a VM being forcefully turned off by the host’s power getting yanked!

With one, there should be some event fired off by libvirt to tell OpenNebula that the VM has indeed turned itself off.  With the latter, it should observe that one moment the VM is there, and next it isn’t… the inference being that it should still be there, and that perhaps that VM should be re-started.

This could be a libvirt limitation too.  I’ll have to research that.  If it is, then the answer is clear: we ditch libvirt and DIY.  I’ll have to research how I can establish a quorum and schedule where VMs get put, but it should be doable without the hassle that OpenNebula has been so far, and without going to the utter tedium that is OpenStack.

Solar Cluster: BCDC1225 switching between solar and mains not reliable

So yeah, it seems history repeats itself.  The Redarc BCDC1225 is not reliable in switching between solar inputs and 12V input derived from the mains.

At least this morning’s wake-up call was a little later in the morning:

From: ipmi@hydrogen.ipmi.lan
To: stuartl@longlandclan.id.au
Subject: IPMI hydrogen.ipmi.lan
Message-Id: <20171023194305.72ECB200C625@atomos.longlandclan.id.au>
Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2017 05:43:05 +1000 (EST)

Incoming alert
IP : xxx.xxx.xxx.xxx
Hostname: hydrogen.ipmi.lan
SEL_TIME:"1970/01/27 02:03:00" 
SENSOR_NUMBER:"30"
SENSOR_TYPE:"Voltage          "
SENSOR_ID:"12V             " 
EVENT_DESCRIPTION:"Lower Critical going low                                         "
EVENT_DIRECTION:"Assertion  "
EVENT SEVERITY:"non-critical"

We’re now rigging up the Xantrex charger that I was using in early testing and will probably use that for mains. I have a box wired up with a mains SSR for switching power to it.  I think that’ll be the long-term plan and the Redarc charger will be retired from service, perhaps we might use it in some non-critical portable station.

Solar Cluster: Solar Testing

So I’ve now had the solar panels up for a month now… and so far, we’ve had a run of very overcast or wet days.

Figures… and we thought this was the “sunshine state”?

I still haven’t done the automatic switching, so right now the mains power supply powers the relay that switches solar to mains.  Thus the only time my cluster runs from solar is when either I switch off the mains power supply manually, or if there’s a power interruption.

The latter has not yet happened… mains electricity supply here is pretty good in this part of Brisbane, the only time I recall losing it for an extended period of time was back in 2008, and that was pretty exceptional circumstances that caused it.

That said, the political football of energy costs is being kicked around, and you can bet they’ll screw something up, even if for now we are better off this side of the Tweed river.

A few weeks back, with predictions of a sunny day, I tried switching off the mains PSU in the early morning and letting the system run off the solar.  I don’t have any battery voltage logging or current logging as yet, but the system went fine during the day.  That evening, I turned the mains back on… but the charger, a Redarc BCDC1225, seemingly didn’t get that memo.  It merrily let both batteries drain out completely.

The IPMI BMCs complained bitterly about the sinking 12V rail at about 2AM when I was sound asleep.  Luckily, I was due to get up at 4AM that day.  When I tried checking a few things on the Internet, I first noticed I didn’t have a link to the Internet.  Look up at the switch in my room and saw the link LED for the cluster was out.

At that point, some choice words were quietly muttered, and I wandered downstairs with multimeter in hand to investigate.  The batteries had been drained to 4.5V!!!

I immediately performed some load-shedding (ripped out all the nodes’ power leads) and power-cycled the mains PSU.  That woke the charger up from its slumber, and after about 30 seconds, there was enough power to bring the two Ethernet switches in the rack online.  I let the voltage rise a little more, then gradually started re-connecting power to the nodes, each one coming up as it was plugged in.

The virtual machine instances I had running outside OpenNebula came up just fine without any interaction from me, but  it seems OpenNebula didn’t see it fit to re-start the VMs it was responsible for.  Not sure if that is a misconfiguration, or if I need to look at an alternate solution.

Truth be told, I’m not a fan of libvirt either… overly complicated for starting QEMU VMs.  I might DIY a solution here as there’s lots of things that QEMU can do which libvirt ignores or makes more difficult than it should be.

Anyway… since that fateful night, I have on two occasions run the cluster from solar without incident.  On the off-chance though, I have an alternate charger which I might install at some point.  The downside is it doesn’t boost the 12V input like the other one, so I’d be back to using that Xantrex charger to charge from mains power.

Already, I’m thinking about the criteria for selecting a power source.  It would appear there are a few approaches I can take, I can either purely look at the voltages seen at the solar input and on the battery, or I can look at current flow.

Voltage wise, I tried measuring the solar panel output whilst running the cluster today.  In broad daylight, I get 19V off the panels, and at dusk it’s about 16V.

Judging from that, having the solar “turn on” at 18V and “turn off” at 15V seems logical.  Using the comparator approach, I’d need to set a reference of 16.5V and tweak the hysteresis to give me a ±3V swing.

However, this ignores how much energy is actually being produced from solar in relation to how much is being consumed.  It is possible for a day to start off sunny, then for the weather to cloud over.  Solar voltage in that case might be sitting at the 16V mentioned.

If the current is too low though, the cluster will drain more power out than is going in, and this will result in the exact conditions I had a few weeks ago: a flat battery bank.  Thus I’m thinking of incorporating current shunts both on the “input” to the battery bank, and to the “output”.  If output is greater than input, we need mains power.

There’s plenty of literature about interfacing to current shunts.  I’ll have to do some research, but immediately I’m thinking an op-amp running from the battery configured as a non-inverting DC gain block with the inputs going to either side of the current shunt.

Combining the approaches is attractive.  So turn on when solar exceeds 18V, turn off when battery output current exceeds battery input current.  A dual op-amp, a dual comparator, two current shunts, a R-S flip-flop and a P-MOSFET for switching the relay, and no hysteresis calculations needed.

Solar Cluster: Solar Panel Installation

So… there came a weekend where two of us were free, and we had the bits organised, we could install the panels themselves.

We mounted two rails to the metal roof, then one by one, I’d terminate a cable with the solar connectors, I’d pass the panel up where my father would mount it to the rails, then the cable would be passed up, connected to the panel, then the unterminated end tossed over the gutter.

Once we were certain of cable length, I’d cut it to length (a fun job cutting a live cable), then the process would repeat.

We started about 8AM and we’re now pretty much finished the actual panel installation. We need to get some conduit to better protect the cable, and once the sun is down, I might look at terminating the other ends of the cables via 10A fuses.

This is the installation on the roof as it is now.

There’s space for one more panel, which would give me 480W. There’s also the option of buying more rails and mounting those… plenty of space up there.

DIY DC “power wall” is an option, certainly a 12V feed in the kitchen would be nice for powering the slow cooker and in major weather events, the 12V fridge/freezer.

The cables just run over the edge of the roof, and will terminate under the roof on the back deck.

I’m thinking the fuse box will be about head height, and there’ll be an isolation switch for the 12V feed going (via 8GA cable) downstairs to where the cluster lives.

As it happens, we did a pretty good job estimating the length of cable needed.

The plan is, we’ll get some conduit to run that cable in, as having it run bare across a hot tin roof is not good for its longevity. One evening, I’ll terminate those cables and wire up the fuse box.

I’ve got to think about how I’ll mount the isolation switch, I’m thinking a separate smaller box might be the go there. After that, then I need to work on the automatic switching.

Solar Cluster: Adding Solar

So we’ve got a free weekend where there’ll be two of us to do a solar installation… thus the parts have now been ordered for that installation.

First priority will be to get the panels onto the roof and bring the feed back to where the cluster lives.  The power will come from 3 12V 120W solar panels that will be mounted on the roof over the back deck.  Theoretically these can push about 7A of current with a voltage of 17.6V.

We’ve got similar panels to these on the roof of a caravan, those ones give us about 6A of current when there’s bright sunlight.  The cluster when going flat-chat needs about 10A to run, so with three panels in broad daylight, we should be able to run the cluster and provide about 8A to top batteries up with.

We’ll be running individual feeds of 8-gauge DC cable from each panel down to a fused junction box under the roof on the back deck.  From there, it’ll be 6-gauge DC cable down to the cluster’s charge controller.

Now, we have a relay that switches between mains-sourced DC and the solar, and right now it’s hard-wired to be on when the mains supply is switched on.

I’m thinking that the simplest solution for now will be to use a comparator with some hysteresis.  That is, an analogue circuit.  When the solar voltage is greater than the switchmode DC power supply, we use solar.  We’ll need the hysteresis to ensure the relay doesn’t chatter when the solar voltage gets near the threshold.

The other factor here is that the solar voltage may get as high as 22V or so, thus resistor dividers will be needed both sides to ensure the inputs to the comparator are within safe limits.

The current consumption of this will be minimal, so a LM7809 will probably do the trick for DC power regulation to power the LM311.  If I divide all inputs by 3, 22V becomes ~7.3V, giving us plenty of head room.

I can then use the built-in NPN to drive a P-channel MOSFET that controls the relay.  The relay would connect between MOSFET drain and 0V, with the MOSFET source connecting to the switchmode PSU (this is where the relay connects now).

The solar controller also connects its control line to the MOSFET drain.  To it, the MOSFET represents the ignition switch on a vehicle, starting the engine would connect 12V to the relay and the solar controller control input, connecting the controller’s DC input to the vehicle battery and telling the controller to boost this voltage up for battery charging purposes.

By hooking it up in this manner, and tuning the hysteresis on the comparator, we should be able to handle automatic switch-over between mains power and solar with the minimum of components.

Solar Cluster: Rack installed in-situ

So, there’s some work still to be done, for example making some extension leads for the run between the battery link harness, load power distribution and the charger… and to generally tidy things up, but it is now up and running.

On the floor, is the 240V-12V power supply and the charger, which right now is hard-wired in boost mode. In the bottom of the rack are the two 105Ah 12V AGM batteries, in boxes with fuses and isolation switches.

The nodes and switching is inside the rack, and resting on top is the load power distribution board, which I’ll have to rewire to make things a little neater. A prospect is to mount some of this on the back.

I had a few introductions to make, introducing the existing pair of SG-200 switches to the newcomer and its VLANs, but now at least, I’m able to SSH into the nodes, access the IPMI BMC and generally configure the whole box and dice.

With the exception of the later upgrade to solar, and the aforementioned wiring harness clean-ups, the hardware-side of this dual hardware/software project, is largely complete, and this project now transitions to being a software project.

The plan from here:

  • Update the OSes… as all will be a little dated. (I might even blow away and re-load.)
  • Get Ceph storage up and running. It actually should be configured already, just a matter of getting DNS hostnames sorted out so they can find eachother.
  • Investigating the block caching landscape: when I first started the project at work, it was a 3-horse race between Facebook’s FlashCache, bcache and dmcache. Well, FlashCache is no more, replaced by EnhancedIO, and I’m not sure about the rest of the market. So this needs researching.
  • Management interfaces: at my workplace I tried Ganeti, OpenNebula and OpenStack. This again, needs re-visiting. OpenNebula has moved a long way from where it was and I haven’t looked at the others in a while. OpenStack had me running away screaming, but maybe things have improved.

Solar Cluster: Power distribution harnesses

So, having got the rack mostly together, it is time to figure out how to connect everything.

I was originally going to have just one battery and upgrade later… but when it was discovered that the battery chosen was rather sick, the decision was made that I’d purchase two new batteries. So rather than deferring the management of multiple batteries, I’d have to deal with it up-front.

Rule #1 with paralleling batteries: don’t do it unless you have to. In a perfect world, you can do it just fine, but reality doesn’t work that way. There’s always going to be an imbalance that upsets things. My saving grace is that my installation is fixed, not mobile.

I did look at alternatives, including diodes (too much forward voltage drop), MOSFET switching (complexity), relay switching (complexity again, plus contact wear), and DIY uniselectors. Since I’m on a tight deadline, I decided, stuff it, I’ll parallel them.

That brings me to rule #2 about paralleling batteries: keep everything as close to matched as possible. Both batteries were bought in the same order, and hopefully are from the same batch. Thus, characteristics should be very close. The key thing here, I want to keep cable lengths between the batteries, load and charger, all equal so that the resistances all balance out. That, and using short runs of thick cables to minimise resistance.

I came up with the following connection scheme:

You’ll have to forgive the poor image quality here. On reflection, photographing a whiteboard has always been challenging.

Both batteries are set up in an identical fashion: 40A fuse on the positive side, cable from the negative side, going to an Andersen SB50/10. (Or I might put the fuse on the negative side … haven’t decided fully yet, it’ll depend on how much of each colour wire I have.) The batteries themselves are Giant Power 105Ah 12V AGM batteries. These are about as heavy as I can safely manage, weighing about 30kg each.

The central harness is what I built this afternoon, as I don’t yet have the fuse holders for the two battery harnesses.

The idea being that the resistance between the charger and each battery should be about the same. Likewise, the resistance between the load and each battery should be about the same

The load uses a distribution box and a bus bar. You’ve seen it before, but here’s how it’s wired up… pretty standard:

You might be able to make out the host names there too (periodic table naming scheme, why, because they’re Intel Atoms) … the 5 nodes are on the left and the two switches to the right of the distribution box. I have 3 spare positions.

In heavy black is the 0V bus bar.

This is what I’ve been spending much of my pondering, doing. Part of this harness is already done as it was installed that way in the car, the bit that’s missing is the circuit to the left of the relay that actually drives it. Redarc intended that the ignition key switch would drive the relay, I’ll be exploiting this feature.

Some time this week, I hope to make up the wiring harnesses for the two batteries, and get some charge into them as they’ve sat around for the past two months in their boxes steadily discharging, so I’d be better to get a charger onto them sooner rather than later.

The switch-over circuit can wait for now: just hard-wire it to the mains DC feed for now since there’s no solar yet. The principle of operation is that the comparator (an LM311) compares the solar voltage to a reference (derived from a 5V regulator) and kicks in when the voltage is high enough. (How high? No idea, maybe ~18V?). When that happens, it outputs a logic high signal that turns off the MOSFET. When too low, it pulls the MOSFET gate low, turning it on.

The MOSFET (a P-channel) provides the “ignition key switch” signal to the BCDC1225, fooling it into thinking it is connected to vehicle power, and the charger will boost as needed. The key being that the BCDC1225 makes the decision as to whether the battery needs charging, and how much charge.

By bolting together off-the-shelf parts, we should have something that I can source replacements for should the smoke escape, and there’s no high voltages to deal with.

Solar Cluster: Rack taking shape

Well, it’s been a while since I last updated this project. Lots have been due to general lethargy, real life and other pressures.

This equipment is being built amongst other things to host my websites, mail server, and as a learning tool for managing clustered computing resources. As such, yes, I’ll be putting it down as a work expense… and it was pointed out to me that it needed to be in operation before I could start claiming it on tax. So, with 30th June looming up soon, it was time I pulled my finger out and got it going.

At least running on mains. As for the solar bit, well we will be doing that too, my father recently sent me this email (line breaks for readability):

Subject: Why you're about to pay through the nose for power - ABC News
 (Australian Broadcasting Corporation)
To: Stuart Longland
From: David Longland
http://www.abc.net.au/news/2017-06-19/…
   …why-youre-about-to-pay-through-the-nose-for-power/8629090

Hi Stuart,

This is why I am keen to see your cluster up and running.  Our power 
bill is about $300 every 3 months, a lift in price by 20% represents 
$240pa hike.

Dad

Umm, yeah… good point. Our current little server represents a small portion of our base-load power… refrigeration being the other major component.

I ordered the rack and batteries a few months back, and both have been sitting here, still in the boxes they were shipped in, waiting for me to get to and put them together. My father got fed up of waiting and attacked the rack, putting it together one evening… and last night, we worked together on putting a back on the rack using 12mm plywood.

We also fitted the two switches, mounting the smaller one to the lid of the main switch using multiple layers of double-sided tape.

I wasn’t sure at first where the DIN rail would mount. I had intended to screw it to a piece of 2×4″ or similar, and screw that to the back plane. We couldn’t screw the DIN rail directly to the back plane because the nodes need to be introduced to the DIN rail at an angle, then brought level to attach them.

Considering the above, we initially thought we’d bolt it to the inner run of holes, but two problems presented themselves:

  1. The side panels actually covered over those holes: this was solved with a metal nibbling tool, cutting a slot where the hole is positioned.
  2. The DIN rail, when just mounted at each end, lacked the stability.

I measured the gap between the back panel and the DIN rail location: 45mm. We didn’t have anything that was that width which we could use as a mounting. We considered fashioning a bracket out of some metal strip, but bending it right could be a challenge without the right tools. (and my metalwork skills were never great.)

45mm + 3mm is 48mm… or 4× plywood pieces. We had plenty of off-cut from the back panel.

Using 4 pieces of the plywood glued together and clamped overnight, I made a mounting to which I could mount the DIN rail for the nodes to sit on. This afternoon, I drilled the pilot holes and fitted the screws for mounting that block, and screwed the DIN rail to it.

At the far ends, I made spacers from 3mm aluminium metal strap. The result is not perfect, but is much better than what we had before.

I’ve wired up the network cables… checking the lengths of those in case I needed to get longer cables. (They just fit… phew! $20 saved.) and there is room down the bottom for the batteries to sit. I’ll make a small 10cm cable to link the management network up to the appropriate port on the main switch, then I just need to run cables to the upstairs and downstairs switches. (In fact, there’s one into the area already.)

On the power front… my earlier experiments had ascertained the suitability of the Xantrex charger that we had spare. The charger is a smart charger, and so does various equalisation and balancing cycles, thus gets mightily confused if you suddenly disconnect the battery from it by way of a MOSFET. A different solution presented itself though.

My father has a solar set-up in the back of his car… there’s a 12V 120W panel on the roof, and that provides power to a battery system which powers an amateur radio station and serves as an auxiliary battery. There’s a diode arrangement that allows charging from the vehicle battery system.

In an effort to try and upgrade it, he bought a Redarc BCDC1225 in-vehicle MPPT charger. This charger can accept power from either the 12V mains supply in a vehicle, or from a “12V” solar panel. The key here, is it relies on a changeover relay to switch between the two, and this is where it wasn’t quite suitable for my father’s needs: it assumed that if the vehicle ignition was on, you wanted to charge from the vehicle, not from solar.

He wanted it to switch to whichever source was more plentiful, and had thought the unit would drive the relay itself. Having read the manual, we now know the signal they tell you to connect to the relay coil is there to tell the charger which source it is plugged into, not for it to drive the relay.

The plan is therefore:

  • use a 240V→12V AC-DC switch-mode power supply to provide the “vehicle mains” DC input to the charger.
  • measure the voltage seen at the solar input with a comparator and switch over when it is above some pre-defined voltage (use hysteresis to ensure it doesn’t oscillate)
  • use the output to drive a P-channel MOSFET attached to the “vehicle mains”, which drives the relay.

Solar Cluster: Selecting batteries and sources

I’ve been doing quite a bit of thinking on this. Solid-state works but suffers from voltage drop. Relays work but either require the coil to be energised constantly (~1W load) unless you look for latching relays, for which 30A units are hard to come by.

These look promising though. A latching relay is nice since I only need to pulse the coil, not hold it on indefinitely.

That got me thinking what else can I use to switch power? The ideal for me is something that has practically no voltage drop and remembers its state without power. A latching relay fits this requirement. So does a uniselector or stepping switch. Those were commonplace in telephone exchanges years ago, but have since gone the way of the dodo as semiconductor technology replaced it.

The nice thing about a uniselector though for my application is you can switch between N points, instead of just two like a regular relay. So if I buy a third battery, I can wire it up to the uniselector, and have it switch the compute load between the batteries. Likewise, I can connect a charger to the battery most in need of a charge. MCU measures battery voltages, picks the battery with highest voltage to run the load, and the lowest voltage to get a charge. Easy.

That got me thinking… can I make a uniselector? Well of course I can! I basically need to make a rotary switch that can revolve around indefinitely. The shaft of the switch would then be turned by a DC motor.

The stator of a N-way switch would have N+1 pads, one which is the “common”, and the other N would be to each selection. The common pad would be a 180° arc, the others would be 180°/N.

The rotor would feature two brushes 180° apart with a wire connecting them. It is free to move vertically, but must rotate with the shaft, a spring between a nut on the end of the shaft and the rotor applies tension to keep the rotor pressed firmly against the stator.

The interface between rotor and stator features some triangular grooves, so that when the rotor is turned, it pushes it away from the stator, breaking contact. When the rotor passes a critical point, the spring pressing the rotor against these grooves makes the rotor “want” to continue turning until it hits the bottom of the groove, at which point it “sinks” down towards the stator and eventually makes contact again.

Visually, it looks like this:

A small microswitch mounted on the stator could tell us when touch-down takes place, if we use the normally-closed contact to power the motor it will automatically stop the motor when the next position is reached. We then just need to override that open switch by applying a pulse to get things moving.

Power is only needed when we want to change the selector switch. This should be simple enough to fabricate here out of plywood. I don’t have a 3D printer, but you could do it with one of those very easily.

The nature of this switch makes it a break-before-make switch, which has a downside when using it to select which battery to use: there’s a momentary break in power.

I can use diodes to carry the current temporarily. If I run a high-current diode from each battery to the output via a current sensor. If the current sensor measures current flowing through the diodes whilst a battery is selected, then we know that battery is lower than the others by at least the diode voltage drop, and we should consider switching.

Solar Cluster: A no-microcontroller automatic battery selector

Another approach to the selecting a source is to avoid microcontrollers altogether and just rely on non-programmable logic. This is inspired a bit by the Saturday Clock, or rather, my thinking of how it could be done without an MCU.

In selecting a source, we really only care about one thing: is the battery voltage high enough? If no, we need to hunt for one that is.

This question can be answered by a simple analogue comparator such as the LM311, a shift register, and a few other logic gates.

Here, we have such a circuit. Up the top, is our shift register, set up as a ring counter. The buffers there are stand-ins for diodes, if any of them is a 1, the output is a 1 and the NOT gate on the input outputs a 0.

The outputs of the shift register are used to select a battery, which has its own comparator and select logic. The comparator is represented here by the D flip-flop at the extreme left: in essence I’m using this as a switch, Logisim doesn’t provide one, only a momentary button. We need a signal that is high when the battery is above acceptable voltage. We also need its inverse.

The select line from the shift register controls the gate on two tri-state buffers, allowing us to inhibit the comparator’s output. The buffered “good” signal is used to SET the “enable” D-flip-flop that drives the switch turning the battery on. This same (buffered “good”) signal also passes thorough a diode-OR arrangement that indicates whether a source is “available”.

To emulate make-before-break, inverted “select” signal and the “source available” signal pass through an AND gate and into the RESET of the “enable” flip flop, so it gets turned off when another source is turned on.

Finally, the buffered “bad” signal from all modules is fed back on one shared line, inhibiting the clock until a battery drops below the minimum level.

A glitch here is if multiple batteries are initially turned on with none above the minimum voltage, this will cause multiple sources to be selected. This is not too hard to manage in software, and the solution might in fact be to implement this on an ATTiny24A as mentioned in the previous post; this logic circuit can be implemented quite easily in C, with comparators in hardware or using the ADC as a software comparator as I’m doing in the charge controller.