mosfet

Toy Synthesizer: Building synth #2

So… last weekend I got to trying out the I/O modules. I rigged up wiring harnesses for all five push-buttons and their associated LED strings.

I used CAT5e since I’ve got loads of it around… and ran four strands up to each button, carrying: +12V, MOSFET drain, GPIO and 0V. I ran a resistor between +12V and GPIO to pull it high, the switch NO and common connected between GPIO and 0V. The button’s illumination LEDs and the LED string both connected in parallel between +12V and MOSFET drain.

So far so good. I have just a 3-pin connection on the I/O module, carrying all but the +12V. That remaining wire I hooked to +12V directly on the input feed. Not having a 0V feed going direct to the power supply though was my mistake.

If this happens, the 0V reference on the I/O module is open-circuit, and the zeners, meant to protect the MCU from +12V, don’t do anything. So I suspect a MC14066 copped a belt of +12V by mistake!

Not sure, but I thought I’d play it safe and build a new one anyway. I started on it earlier this week and finished it this afternoon. This time around I opted to put LEDs on the outputs of the 74HC574. No current-limiting resistors, since they’re meant to be ⅛ duty cycle anyway, and if they smoke, well, who cares?

This highlighted a glitch on the GPIO_EN signal during programming, LEDs would illuminate during MCU programming. A pull-up helps here.

I tested using a 9V supply from my electronics kit, which has AA cells in it (somewhat stale ones) this time around. Handily, the plugs for the LED strings have LEDs in them themselves, and they work at 9V, so we can use those to see what the LED string would do.

On the software side, I finally fixed polyphonics and a key-sticking issue. One of my I/O modules has stopped working for whatever reason, but the others are working fine, as can be seen here:

The other issue I have to chase is some leakage on the blue and white buttons: the plugs for them are not meant to be glowing unless pressed, but you note they are glowing significantly, and get brighter when those buttons are pressed. I might have to re-visit those connections. Otherwise though, very good progress today.

Solar Cluster: Power distribution harnesses

So, having got the rack mostly together, it is time to figure out how to connect everything.

I was originally going to have just one battery and upgrade later… but when it was discovered that the battery chosen was rather sick, the decision was made that I’d purchase two new batteries. So rather than deferring the management of multiple batteries, I’d have to deal with it up-front.

Rule #1 with paralleling batteries: don’t do it unless you have to. In a perfect world, you can do it just fine, but reality doesn’t work that way. There’s always going to be an imbalance that upsets things. My saving grace is that my installation is fixed, not mobile.

I did look at alternatives, including diodes (too much forward voltage drop), MOSFET switching (complexity), relay switching (complexity again, plus contact wear), and DIY uniselectors. Since I’m on a tight deadline, I decided, stuff it, I’ll parallel them.

That brings me to rule #2 about paralleling batteries: keep everything as close to matched as possible. Both batteries were bought in the same order, and hopefully are from the same batch. Thus, characteristics should be very close. The key thing here, I want to keep cable lengths between the batteries, load and charger, all equal so that the resistances all balance out. That, and using short runs of thick cables to minimise resistance.

I came up with the following connection scheme:

You’ll have to forgive the poor image quality here. On reflection, photographing a whiteboard has always been challenging.

Both batteries are set up in an identical fashion: 40A fuse on the positive side, cable from the negative side, going to an Andersen SB50/10. (Or I might put the fuse on the negative side … haven’t decided fully yet, it’ll depend on how much of each colour wire I have.) The batteries themselves are Giant Power 105Ah 12V AGM batteries. These are about as heavy as I can safely manage, weighing about 30kg each.

The central harness is what I built this afternoon, as I don’t yet have the fuse holders for the two battery harnesses.

The idea being that the resistance between the charger and each battery should be about the same. Likewise, the resistance between the load and each battery should be about the same

The load uses a distribution box and a bus bar. You’ve seen it before, but here’s how it’s wired up… pretty standard:

You might be able to make out the host names there too (periodic table naming scheme, why, because they’re Intel Atoms) … the 5 nodes are on the left and the two switches to the right of the distribution box. I have 3 spare positions.

In heavy black is the 0V bus bar.

This is what I’ve been spending much of my pondering, doing. Part of this harness is already done as it was installed that way in the car, the bit that’s missing is the circuit to the left of the relay that actually drives it. Redarc intended that the ignition key switch would drive the relay, I’ll be exploiting this feature.

Some time this week, I hope to make up the wiring harnesses for the two batteries, and get some charge into them as they’ve sat around for the past two months in their boxes steadily discharging, so I’d be better to get a charger onto them sooner rather than later.

The switch-over circuit can wait for now: just hard-wire it to the mains DC feed for now since there’s no solar yet. The principle of operation is that the comparator (an LM311) compares the solar voltage to a reference (derived from a 5V regulator) and kicks in when the voltage is high enough. (How high? No idea, maybe ~18V?). When that happens, it outputs a logic high signal that turns off the MOSFET. When too low, it pulls the MOSFET gate low, turning it on.

The MOSFET (a P-channel) provides the “ignition key switch” signal to the BCDC1225, fooling it into thinking it is connected to vehicle power, and the charger will boost as needed. The key being that the BCDC1225 makes the decision as to whether the battery needs charging, and how much charge.

By bolting together off-the-shelf parts, we should have something that I can source replacements for should the smoke escape, and there’s no high voltages to deal with.

Solar Cluster: Charge controller testing, battery bank dimensioning and other thoughts

So, further progress on the charge controller.

Thinking about the problem … I realised that I really do not want to be testing for VBNVH when entering the CHARGE_CHECK state, as it’ll prematurely terminate the charge when the battery is being bulk-charged.

Better to wait until the charger decides to stop … which we’ll see due to the battery voltage ceasing to increase. We do want to check we’re not critically high however, so we can swap out VH for VCH.

Next, when we find that VBNVBL, meaning the battery is not charging, there we can check for VBNVH and stop charging at that point.

That change, worked pretty well, but it was still flapping between sources. A little state management helped this. If we declare another state variable, charger_warning, we can flip this to 1 upon first detecting that VBNVBL, then wait a little longer. If after a time-out this is still the case, then we can take action. Thus we define a new timer tCWARN, which delays acting on the not-charging case.

A bit of threshold tweaking, and things are behaving themselves. I’m using an el-cheapo 3-way camping fridge as the stand-in for the cluster. This is an Aldi special bought some years ago that draws about 5-6A… and when running on 12V power, features no thermostat.

We’re finding that its cooling capacity is no match for Brisbane’s early autumn weather anyway, so it’s pretty much would be a constant load even if the thermostat worked on 12V.

The battery we’re using is an old 105Ah AGM battery… which is one of two batteries from the caravan we have here. They were the original batteries, and this battery’s mate had failed when both were replaced. We’ve noted this battery getting warm whilst charging, so we think it might now be on the way out too.

What to replace it with? LiFePO₄ is AU$1000 for 100Ah, so too expensive. AGM is still the better bet. I can get 300Ah AGM batteries, but they weigh nearly as much as I do. I can just manage the 105Ah, so we’ll stick with those. I will need more than one long-term.

That brings the thorny issue of connecting them. I am not keen to hook batteries in parallel for various reasons. At least not permanently.

Now, the charger I’m using for mains is a 3-channel charger. I can make additional charge controllers (with the caveat that I need heatsinks for the MOSFETs…sigh!) and I can look for 3-channel solar chargers, or just get multiple chargers for the extra batteries. This can be done.

The load is the elephant in the room. I’d ideally like to manage it as a single load, although conceivably, I could put the switch and one storage node on one battery, a second storage node and a compute node on a second, and the final storage and compute nodes on the third. If the switch goes however, my cluster is toast.

I can put batteries in parallel, but this really does need to be done with care, using carefully matched batteries. So the better solution is to have a controller that chooses the battery with the highest voltage.

There might be an analogue means of implementing this, but a microcontroller is a single-chip solution. The ATTiny24As have up to 8 ADC/GPIO pins and three non-ADC GPIO pins. It’s what I’m already using for the charge controller, so is an easy choice.

The cluster will not tolerate a break-before-make switch-over. I thought about using a capacitor bank to keep the cluster alive during a brief (~1sec max) switch-over. Back-of-the-envelope calculations suggested I would need a 10F capacitor bank. I can get a 16V 470mF capacitor for AU$70 each… and would need 20 of these. Ouch!

A small battery is another option, maybe a 7Ah, but that has its own maintenance issues, and represents a single point of failure.

I can get Schottky diodes capable of 40A, they still present a 0.6V voltage drop. At 30A, that represents 16W! For comparison, a relay with a 225ohm coil resistance will draw ~60mA when the battery is at the maximum of 15V, representing a load of 1W.

Or I can use more MOSFETs like the ones I’m already using, which draw even less power; poor man’s solid-state relays. Latching relays also exist, but they can be rather expensive, more so than a solid-state relay.

I can probably get away with temporary parallel connections, so a make-before-break would let me switch sources. Or, I could place my switch across a Schottky, meaning I put up with that 16W load for a brief moment while I switch sources.

So more to think about, but we are getting close. I can defer this decision until I get a second battery, but I am getting close to the point where the cluster will be running full-time.

Solar Cluster: Load testing… with the new power modules

Well, I’ve finally dragged this project out and plugged everything in to test the new power modules out.

I’ll be hooking up the laptop and getting the nodes to do something strenuous in a moment, but for now, I have them just idling on the battery, with the battery charger being switched by the charge controller, built around an ATTiny24A and this time, a separate power module rather than it being integrated.

I’ve had it going for a few hours now… and so far, so good. The PSU is getting turned on and off more often than I’d like, but at least the smoke isn’t escaping now. The heatsink for the power modules is warm, but still not at the “burn your fingers off” stage.

That to me suggests the largish heatsink was the right one to use.

Two things I need to probably address though:

  • In spite of the LDOs, the acceptable voltage range of the computers is still rather narrow… I’m not sure if it’s just the IPMI BMC being fussy or if the LDOs need to be knocked down a peg to keep the voltage within limits. Perhaps I should use the same resistor values as I did for the Ethernet switch.
  • The thresholds seem to get reached very quickly which means the timeouts still need lengthening. Addressing the LDO settings should help with this, as it’ll mean I can bump my thresholds higher.

If I can nail those last two issues, then I might be at risk of having the hardware aspect of this project done and having a workable cluster to do the software side of the project. Shock horror!

Solar Cluster: First power module built

So, I got most of the bits together to build a first power module for the cluster. This is after a mix-up with some of the parts, namely:

  • the 2 and 3-pin KK connectors I ordered just came as housings, no pins.
  • the supplier mixed up my order and sent rubber feet instead of 3-pin KK connector housings.

So I’ve got some 2-pin housings, but no pins … no problem, this was my fault for not checking and I think I’ve found the right pins for the task. I’ve placed a second order for these (along with some other bits to play with).

The rubber feet will be put on one side: I have no immediate use for them, and the supplier has dispatched the 3-pin KK housings already. A mix-up at their end hopefully rectified. So I’ll probably have those early next week, and the pins should arrive Thursday or Friday.

In the meantime though, I rummaged around the junk box and found a 3-pin KK that was snipped off a socket-370 CPU fan. For what it’s worth, the plug it’s connecting to is de-soldered from an old motherboard too.

The purpose of this module is to switch on or off a +12V charging supply… the intent is that to the board, it looks like a MOSFET, with the same control signals one would see. It is intended to be hot-pluggable (in more ways than one).

The red/black Anderson connector is the DC input, which can in theory be up to 16V DC. It passes in through the white Anderson, through both MOSFETs then out the yellow Anderson to the flying lead that will be connected to the +12V bus bar.

A second flying lead allows connection of the 0V supply to the 0V bus bar. I’m deficient in the black wire department, so a scrap length of heavy gauge speaker wire will do here.

I’ll have to work on how to mount those connectors, at the moment they’re just hanging loose which is not good long-term. I’ll probably glue these to a small piece of perspex, drill/tap some mounting holes and screw it down to stop it flapping in the breeze.

Solar Cluster: First power module, partially built

So, I’ve still got to think about how to do the connectors, but so far, this is what the module looks like.

I’ve spaced the MOSFETs apart in case I decide to use physically bigger parts. The schematic looks like this.

Experimenting with the orientation of the PowerPole connectors, yes, you can mount a pair with one rotated 90°, but then it is impossible to configure the mating pair to match that 90° orientation, the rotated connector will always be 180° out.

So there goes that idea. However, I can use a 2D plywood “funnel” to make it impossible to misalign the connectors. The following not-to-scale diagram shows the gist of what I’m thinking of.

Effectively, I have 3 connectors: White represents Source, Green represents the Gate and Yellow represents the Drain of a typical MOSFET. There’s a pull-up to ensure the MOSFET stays OFF unless explicitly pulled low to turn it ON. The three pins wire directly up to where Q2 and Q4 are located.

In the event of magic smoke escape, I can grab a pair of oven mitts (the heat-sink will be hot, right?), grab the heat-sink and pull upwards to release it and disconnect it from the circuit. The process should be idiot proof enough that I should be able to leave instructions for anyone to follow.

Re-installing a module is the reverse process, just align the module and pull down. It’ll click into place and should start operating straight away.

I’m toying with the idea of including a small thermal fuse on the heat-sink to remove the MOSFETs from circuit should they get too hot. Reason being, someone might not be around if the magic smoke does escape, although provided the heat-sink does the job in the load test next weekend, this should be unlikely.

These look like they’ll do what they want. Okay, means I have to settle for 25A instead of 30A… but the charger is only 20A right now anyway. The 30A max rating was chosen based on the capability of the connectors. 25A is “good enough”.

Solar Cluster: Separating concerns

So, my last attempt at a fully integrated power controller was a smouldering failure. Q7 decided it wasn’t happy about where things were going, and let the world know by the only way it knew: smoke signals!

Curiously, only one of the MOSFETs in use seems to be damaged. When we look at its mate on the other side, Q2, sure it’s discoloured, which could be indication that it has been stressed, or maybe it just got burned by the other MOSFET.

It goes without saying that the pair in the background are fine: no current flowed through them during this test.

This got me thinking, did it get too hot, or did something else go wrong? This is the schematic and PCB layout of that part of the board.

Now looking at it, one thing strikes me. Seems I might have the source pins connected back-to-back, not the drain pins. Could that be it? I think I intended it the other way but didn’t pay enough attention to the schematic symbol. This could be a factor, or maybe the other MOSFET might’ve blown instead.

One thing is certain, I cannot join the two tabs together to the same heat-sink like I was intending with this schematic. Mia culpa!

Thinking about the design, the idea of putting the MOSFETs might be a tad naïve, as by far they are going to be the most likely component to fail on the board. The concept of a separate power module would work better since it’s easy then to just rip one out and put another in its place. Designed right, this could even be hot-pluggable, and can incorporate a heat-sink, and can make use of larger or smaller MOSFETs for different applications.

Luckily, the existing board layout will accommodate this just fine. We put 3-pin KK connectors in place of Q2 and Q4, and we can jumper across Q7 and Q8. This means the feed to the battery only needs to be a light-gauge wire, sufficient to power the controller and measure the battery voltage.

The pin-out isn’t ideal for this: it would be better to have a pin connecting to 0V instead of the battery +12V, but it’s workable. The gate pin becomes an open-collector output, and can theoretically drive (low-current) relays or MOSFETs.

As for what to build this power module on? Well, without going and buying a heat-sink, I’m spoiled for choice:

All of these dwarf the TO-220 package transistor I’m using… okay the one shown is an IRF-9540, but it’s still a TO-220 put there for scale reference. Most of these are for Intel CPUs that are long obsolete, and the top right has the CPUs in question still firmly attached.

The Pentium CPU heat-sink/fan would be the closest in the size, I was hoping I might’ve had a 486 heat-sink laying around, I’m of the opinion that if the power module needs a fan on any of these heat sinks, I’m doing it wrong. This might not be the case if I wanted the full 70A capability, but I’m pushing for 30 which is less than 50% capacity.

The only passive ones I have, and happen to have multiple of, are the ones on the lower right, which were extracted from dead Netgear (Bay Networks) switches. The BGA package still stuck to one of them is a Broadcom BCM5308A2KTB Ethernet switch SoC… it talked to a couple of SRAM packages (duly harvested) and a number of Ethernet PHYs.

The thought is that two MOSFETs could be fixed to the underside with a small PCB. (Well okay, there’s room for all four, but then I’ve got to somehow electrically insulate the two pairs.)

A connector of some sort, either a PCB edge connector, or perhaps a specially keyed Andersen Power Pole connector pairs (which can be rotated 90°) could connect power and control in one secure mounting. Two 30A connectors and a 15A would serve this job well, and they come in a range of colours for the housings. Thus I can avoid the red/black typical colouring to avoid confusion.

Solar Cluster: Full load test: FAIL

So, I drag the cluster, battery and 20A charger out to the deck to do a full load test. This is the first time I’ve fired this newly built controller on a full load. Uncharted territory so far.

Here’s the set up.

The charge controller that I built earlier is in a nice shiny re-purposed case that I had laying around. Just the right size too. These were USB extender devices that my father’s workplace had used in a project: they wanted the innards, so we got the empty boxes. I just mounted the PCB on a small piece of plastic to insulate it from the case, and routed my DC leads out through a hole in the case originally intended for an RJ-45 jack.

At this point, everything is humming along fine. Our battery charger is on stand-by.

The meter is showing a sedate 12.4V and the controller is happy with this. That said, I’ll have to work on the visibility of those LEDs. The two on the power MOSFET control lines are off at this stage.

So I give the system a bit of curry. I transfer a copy of a Linux kernel git repository to each, tell them to update their working copies from that, and build a version of kernel v4.8.5. This made the current jump up to about 10A. So far so good, the battery is holding.

Then, about 30 seconds in, the controller decides it’s a bit too low, so it kicks the charger on. There’s a few false starts, as the charger delays its start-up a bit. Eventually though they get into sync and start charging. At this point, the charger is taking the load of the battery and the cluster.

Great. So it continues for a minute, then decides it wants to shut down, which it does, followed by a moment of oscillation. It seems the controller is too impatient for the charger, waiting for the power to come on…but then… what’s that smell???

Oops, guess that MOSFET got just a little too hot. I was hoping to avoid the need for heatsinks by over-dimensioning the MOSFETs. These are supposedly able to take 70A, I realise that’s with a heatsink, but I thought that at 20A, they would be able to handle it.

One somewhat roasted MOSFET says otherwise. Interestingly, only one has visible marks, its mate looks okay, but likely isn’t.

The MOSFETs don’t have to be mounted directly on the PCB, we can re-locate them to where we can squeeze a heatsink in if I can’t get one in between the two already. The thought was each pair have a heatsink in between them. More pondering to do it seems.

Solar Cluster: Getting PCBs made

So a few weeks ago, I gave the charge controller a test, seeing if it in fact reacted in the manner I expected before deciding whether to proceed with the existing prototype or whether I should iterate the design.

In the end, I decided I’d tweak the design and get new boards built. By using SMD parts and a 4-layer board, I was able to shrink my design down to a 5×5cm square, which is relatively inexpensive to have fabricated.

I’ll be getting a few boards which means I can have some spares in case something goes bang or if I want to scale out my battery bank.

The updated design is published in the files section. This also incorporates @K.C. Lee‘s advice regarding back-to-back MOSFETs.

After some fun and games, one PCB fab house telling me to “check my passwords match” (when I know for certain that they did match), and another seemingly ignoring the inner two layers, I settled on a PCB manufacturer (thanks to PCBShopper) and got the boards ordered.

I put down my home address for the billing address and my work address as the delivery address. Both given as being in “Queensland, Australia”.

This is a learning experience for me, I’m used to just drawing my circuit out with a dalo pen, but unfortunately my skills aren’t up to producing a board for SOICs.

They reported that they shipped the boards on the 21st, and had previously estimated about 2-3 weeks for delivery. No problem there.

Just one niggling concern…

Not familiar with Swiss Post procedures, I’d have expected it to show Hong Kong → Australia, but maybe that’s how they do things. I do hope someone didn’t get Queensland, Australia mixed up with Quebec, Canada!

Update: Just been in touch, no the manufacturer didn’t get it mixed up, and it’s the right tracking number. They’re chasing it up with Swiss Post.

Solar Cluster: More MOSFET fun

So I’ve managed to get the board up and going, sort-of. I’m developing the firmware, getting acquainted with the ATTiny24A’s hardware.

The logic is that it’ll be sensing the battery voltage and two inputs from mains and solar, and so when it goes into charge mode, it picks one of the two sources and starts pumping current. Simple enough.

Except testing it has proven “fun”. I hooked everything up, using a power supply with a diode to stand in for the battery. I noticed the ADCs were seeing a voltage on their inputs. How? Why? Of course, the answer was plain to see in the datasheet if I bothered to look!

That little body diode, was of course, passing the current from my “battery” back to the outside world, and that was messing with measurements.

Great. So I’ll be needing a series diode to cram in there somewhere, and the MOSFET is expected to switch up to 30A, so the diode needs to handle that too. The challenge, is there isn’t much room for a heatsink.

Actually, the MOSFETs can do over 70A, so I’ll aim for a diode that can do about 60A, with a view that it won’t be stressed doing 30A even without the heatsink. The Vishay VS-60EPU02PBF is looking like a good option, although expensive.

One annoyance is there doesn’t seem to be a diode that has the cathode connected to the tab of a TO-220, as then I’d just solder the MOSFETs and diodes back-to-back and clamp a heatsink to the pair of them.

I guess for now I can try a few experiments to get acquainted with how it’ll all work, perhaps de-solder the tabs of the MOSFETs (again) and perhaps put a small 3A diode in as a stand-in for testing so I can at least get the firmware written.